Made in South Tyrol, served by foreigners
by Giulia Fasoli & Tom Semmelroth

What are the Italian people talking about while they are eating? Obviously about food.

A culture that turned food into a lifestyle.
[Focus “Di che cosa parlano gli italiani a tavola?”, 2014]

So, let's talk about food!





































 
The entire Italian territory excels primarily by its agriculture, which is closely linked to the Mediterranean and Italian diet. This sector includes vegetables, fruit and cereals which play an important role not only in the national agricultural sector, but in the european and even worldwide.

In italy the total area for agriculture measures 17.8 million hectares, of which 12.9 is currently used. About 60 billion euros per year are generated by agriculture, fishing and forestry and 29 billion from agriculture alone.

 
 


height profile of South Tyrol
[Agrar- und Forstbericht 2018; Autonome Provinz Bozen - Südtriol]




 
 

South Tyrol, one of the the northernmost regions of the country, consists of about 94% mountain area, which offer rather difficult conditions for agricultural land use. [Provincia Autonoma di Bolzano - Alto Adige Ripartizione Agricoltura,“Punti di svantaggio nell‘agricoltura di montagna”]

Despite this, there is a deep connection between the population and its soil: Over 210.000 hectares are used by various agricultural sectors (agrable land 90%, orchards 7% and vineyards 2%) and it provides an annual turnover of about 909 million euros.[Agrar- und Forstbericht 2018; Autonome Provinz Bozen - Südtriol]

 
 


South Tyrol Province terrain and landuse
[Agrar- und Forstbericht 2018; Autonome Provinz Bozen - Südtriol]




 
 

Agriculture in South Tyrol is rooted in tradition going back centuries and still enjoys a comparatively high status. Although the number of persons employed in this sector has declined over the recent years, the importance of agriculture has stabilised, due to among other things subsidy policies. Agriculture is also important for other sectors of the economy. For example two-thirds of the farmers also derive income from other sources, and are consequently economically active in other sectors of the economy. Furthermore, agriculture plays a significant role in landscape conservation. And as a source of typical regional food, agriculture also remains important for tourism.



A brief history of agriculture in South Tyrol
 
 

1870

South Tyrol and most of Europe faced a crisis in agriculture caused by overseas competition and natural disasters such as floods




1950

Until this period, agriculture represented the main economic sector for South Tyrol





1974

The first agricultural school was developed and the first agricultural cooperatives were born to support businesses




2000

The migrant workforce continued to rise despite an economic crisis in Italy

















1880/90

New areas of land have been recovered near the Val d'Adige





1960/70

Started a process of mechanization in the agriculture sector for increase the productivity




1980

Consequently the employment rate in this sector increased. At the same time it started a flow of immigration, connected to increasing incomes of Italians who were less willing to work in this sector

 
 

1870

South Tyrol and most of Europe faced a crisis in agriculture caused by overseas competition and natural disasters such as floods

1880/90

New areas of land have been recovered near the Val d'Adige

1950

Until this period, agriculture represented the main economic sector for South Tyrol

1960/70

Started a process of mechanization in the agriculture sector for increase the productivity

1974

The first agricultural school was developed and the first agricultural cooperatives were born to support businesses

1980

Consequently the employment rate in this sector increased. At the same time it started a flow of immigration, connected to increasing incomes of Italians who were less willing to work in this sector

2000

The migrant workforce continued to rise despite an economic crisis in Italy






 
 

The South Tyrolean agricultural sector includes 20.856 small and medium-sized agricultural enterprises (2007), mostly family-run. Of these companies, about 60% of the farms measure less than 5 hectars.

 
 


Italian apple production
[Italiafruit news, 2019]




 
 

The 19 000 ha of apple fields in South Tyrol supplies up to 40% of the national Italian, 10% of the European and 2% of the global apple market.

 
 


Percentage of orchards within agricultural area
[Agrar- und Forstbericht 2018; Autonome Provinz Bozen - Südtriol]




 

Who is picking all these apples?

 






Seasonal workers in South Tyrol,
[Rapporto sul mercato del lavoro in provincia di Bolzano, 2018/2]




 
 

The "Labor market report" in the province of Bolzano showed that agricultural workers in 2019 reached 13.484 workers (9317 men and 4167 women). Within the year, however, this number fluctuates strongly. If in the months between November and July there are only about 6,000 workers, during the apple harvest (August - October) this number rises to an average of 16.396, at its peak evenup to 20.000 workers. So, although the area dedicated to agriculture is relatively limited compared to the total area (7,400 km²), job offers in this section are considerable high. However, Italian employees represent only 12% while the rest are migrant workers mainly from different countries within Eastern Europe, with an average age of 30-39 years (36%)

 
 
Grey is the new black

The “grey zone” is a term used to define all the hundreds and thousands of semi legal and exploited seasonal workers, especially in the north of the nation. The main problem is, that only a small part of the working time is declared compared to the actual occupation carried out by the workers. The real time of work declared is incomplete and therefore not guaranteeing the complete protection of the worker and the payment of contributions

 




 
Val Venosta

about 21 days

Bassa Atesina

about 41 days

Burgaviato

about 33 days

 



 

According to ISTAT data, since 2008 the rate of irregular workers in agriculture in Trentino-Alto Adige has been the lowest nationwide with around 14%. However, whereas the south of Italy is characterized by undeclared work caused by needs, in the northern part it is referenced that undeclared work is happening for gaining profit. Generally northern farmers do it for reasons of economic convenience, to reduce taxes by finding an agreement between employer and worker. Migrant workers work per season on average 31.3 days depending on the location of the terrain, regardless of whether they are in a mountain area or in the valley.





 
 
The other reality, which nobody wants to see

The suppliance with locally produced food is social and economic reality that would disappear without the presence of foreign workers. Products not only of this region, but from the whole of Italy would have strong difficulties in arriving on our dining tables. It is therefore not just work but a relationship built on need and trust between the farmers and foreign employees.




 
 
What does it mean to be a foreign agricultural employee in South Tyrol?

Who are these people that are working abroad to pick and package the products for a food culture famous all over the world. Obviously it is not possible to provide this one representative story for all foreign seasonal workers in South Tyrol, but the following interview maybe can tell at least one.

Giulia, one of the authors, met with Constantin, a 36 year young Romanian from Timișoara, who is now living permanently in Trentino and has worked as a seasonal worker in agriculture for several years. She conducted a, interview, asking Constantin about his motivations and experiences during this period.







 
 
Da quanto vivi in Italia?






Vivo in Italia da un anno, in Val di Non.




 
 
Per quanti anni sei stato un lavoratore stagionale in Trentino Alto Adige durante la raccolta delle mele?









Ho iniziato nel 2016 e ho fatto tre stagioni.




 
 
Nello specifico dove hai lavorato in Trentino Alto Adige?






Prima stagione l’ho fatto in Trentino, Val di Non perchè mia ragazza abita li. Ma poi sono andato in Altro Adige, vicino a Bolzano.




 
 
Come mai ti sei spostato?






In Trentino non mi trattavano molto bene, in Alto Adige si, ero rispettato. Era un agricoltore “grande”, tanti dipendenti tutti romeni. Tutti gli anni mi chiede se torno.




 
 
Hai intenzione di tornare?







No, il lavoro è brutto, pesante, ora sto bene, Sono capo squadra in un azienda edile, stesso lavoro che facevo al mio paese. Ho un furgone solo per me, sono bravo lavoro, vado anche da solo su i cantieri. Il capo si fida di me.



 
 
Avevi un contratto? Quante ore lavoravi?







10 ore, otto con contratto due in nero. E mi davano il pranzo.




 
 
Come viene visto nel tuo paese fare il lavoratore stagionale in Italia?









Ricco, il lavoratore stagionale è visto come un ricco perchè è fortunato ad andare. Con i soldi di una stagione si vive bene per un bel po’ in Romania.




 
 
In Trentino Alto Adige come viene visto?







Pochi ci parlano, siamo li per lavorare, e siamo lavoratori, ma è meglio in Alto Adige.




 
 
Cosa ne pensi della mancanza di mano d’opera che ci sarà quest’anno a causa della pandemia?










Mi dispiace per le mele, ma ciò ha fatto notare quanto è importante la nostra presenza, tanti anno paura di venire quest’anno dalla Romania. Sono persone con famiglie, non sono solo lavoratori. Ma spero che in qualche modo si riesca a raccogliere tutta la frutta e che non vada buttata.


 
 
Let us not ignore the facts

It can be said that seasonal workers are wether paid nor treated very well. Taken in consideration how highly dependant on them the agricultural food sector in Italy and the rest of europe actually is, this seems rather paradoxical. The recent virus pandemia raised a downright panic when farmers across europe realised they might be cut off from available low paid workforce from eastern europe or Non-EU countries. Appart from that the european population, especially the italian, is voting rightwing parties into their parliaments who want to strengthen borders and decline migration. This all does not fit well together with the wish of a full supermarket shelf. Our society has the urgent duty to rethink wages of and relation towards seasonal workers. Otherwise one year they might not return.